Feel free to print for your personal use. DO NOT reproduce these tables
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Angelika Burles.
salesdesk@yarn-store.com
- Mohair blend yarns (Kid Seta & Heaven), while quite thin, are knit looser to allow the mohair to work out.
- Fixation yarn has lycra in it. It is easily knit tighter and looser.
Knit and Crochet Note:
Remember that these are just suggested sizes if you have no idea where to start. These are not hard and fast rules. You need to use the hook or needle necessary to get the fabric you desire.
Crochet Note:
Suggested crochet hook size is also listed. But because the stitch gauge can be totally all over the place, I have left this column blank. When I am able to feel good about suggested stitch gauges, I will fill in this column.
Yarn | sts per inch | Ndl recommended | Hook recommended |  Lace Weight |
8 | 3 | E - 3.25mm | ||
7 | 2 | E-3.25mmmm | ||
4.5-6.5 | 3-8 | E - 3.25mm | ||
5-9.75 | 0-6 | |||
6.5 | 3 | E - 3.25mm | ||
3.5 | 8 | I - 5mm | ||
Rozetti Cotton Gold | 7.5 | 4 | B | |
8.25-10 | 0-1 | B |
Yarn | sts per inch | Ndl recommended | Hook recommended |  Fingering Weight Yarn |
Schachenmayr SMC Fine Wool | 9 | 1 | B-C | |
7-8 | 1-2 | C - 2.25mm D - 2.75mm | ||
8 | 2 | D - 2.75mm | ||
7-8 | 1-3 | C - 2.25mm D - 2.75mm | ||
7 | 1 | |||
6-8 | 2-4 | D - 2.75mm E - 3.25mm | ||
7 | 3 | E - 3.25mm | ||
6.75-8 | 1-3 | C 2.25mm - E 3.25mm | ||
6 - 7 | 3 - 4 | |||
6.5 - 7 | 2 - 3 |
Yarn | sts per inch | Ndl recommended | Hook recommended |  Sport Weight Yarn  DK Weight |
6.5 | 7 | H - 4.5mm | ||
6.5 | 3 | E - 3.25mm | ||
5.5-6 | 5-6 | G 4mm | ||
5.5 | 6 | G 4mm | ||
6 | 4 | F - 3.5mm | ||
5.5-6 | 5-6 | |||
Jennie Watson Babysoft | 5.5 | 6 | G 4mm | |
5.5-6 | 4-5 | |||
5.5 | 8 | I - 5mm | ||
5.5 | 5 | G - 3.75mm | ||
5.5 | 6 | |||
5.5 | 5 | G - 3.75mm | ||
5.5 | 6 | G - 4mm | ||
5.5 | 6 | G - 4mm | ||
5.25 | 6 | G - 4mm |
Yarn | sts per inch | Ndl recommended | Hook recommended |  Worsted Weight Yarn |
5.25 | 6 | H - 4.5mm | ||
5 | 7 | H - 4.5mm | ||
5 | 7 | H - 4.5mm | ||
5 | 7 | H - 4.5mm | ||
5 | 8 | I - 5mm | ||
5 | 7 | H - 4.5mm | ||
5 | 7 | |||
5 | 7 | H - 4.5mm | ||
5 | 7 | H - 4.5mm | ||
5 | 7 | I - 5mm | ||
Micro Grande | 5 | 7 | I - 5mm | |
4-5 | 6-9 | G - 4mm 4.5mm | ||
4-5 | 6-9 | G - 4mm 4.5mm | ||
5 | 7 | G - 4mm | ||
5 | 7 | |||
5 | 6 | G - 4mm | ||
4.5 | 8 | I - 5mm | ||
4.5 | 8 | |||
4.5 | 8 | I - 5mm | ||
4.5 | 8 | I - 5mm | ||
4.5 | 8 | I - 5mm | ||
4.5 | 8 | I - 5mm | ||
4.5 | 8 | I - 5mm | ||
4.75 | 7 | G - 4mm | ||
4.5 | 7 | H - 4.5mm | ||
4.5 | 8 | I - 5mm | ||
4.5 | 8 | I - 5mm | ||
4.5 | 8 | I - 5mm | ||
4.5 | 8 | |||
4 | 9 | J - 5.5mm | ||
4 | 9 | J - 5.5mm | ||
4 | 9 | J - 5.5mm | ||
4 | 9 | J - 5.5mm | ||
4 | 8 | |||
4 | 9 | J - 5.5mm |
Yarn | sts per inch | Ndl recommended | Hook recommended |  Bulky Weight Yarn |
3.5-4.00 | 9 - 10 | |||
3.75 | 9 - 10 | |||
3.5 | 10 | K - 6mm | ||
3.5 | 10 | K - 6mm | ||
3.5 | 10 | K - 6mm | ||
3.5 | 10 | |||
3.5 | 10.5 | |||
3.5 | 10 | K - 6mm | ||
3-3.5 | 10-11 | K - 6mm | ||
3.5 | 8 | I - 5mm | ||
3.5 | 10.5 | |||
3.5 | 10 | |||
3.5 | 10 |
Yarn | sts per inch | Ndl recommended | Hook recommended |  Chunky Weight Yarn |
1.5-2 | 15-17 | Q-19 | ||
1.5-2 | 15-19 | Q-19 | ||
1.5-2 | 15-17 | Q-19 | ||
3 | 7-8 | |||
2 sts (or slightly less) | 17 |
Above is a list of the yarns I carry. They are in stitches per inch order, and can be of some help for substituting yarn in patterns, or just general “what needle do I use” guideline.
This is just a general guideline. The stitches per inch are the manufacturers starting suggestions. Sometimes they are very accurate, and sometimes we will prefer to knit or crochet at a different gauge. Sometimes you will need to go up or down a needle/hook size to get the same gauge as a friend. Because of this, it is extremely important to do a gauge swatch.
The yarns in stitches per inch order. You will notice that the needles suggested are rather “all over the board”.
Everyone has their own way of doing a swatch. Some will do a 4” swatch. I actually prefer to do an 8” swatch.
For an 8” swatch, cast on for what you think might be 8”. For example, if I want to do a test swatch for a yarn that claims to be 4.5sts per inch, I will cast on 36 sts ( 8 x 4.5 ). If my test piece is working out to 8”, I know I am right on. If it is working out too large, then I need to move down a needle size, in an attempt to get a smaller swatch. Once I am on gauge, I will begin the back of the sweater first. After knitting (or crocheting) about 4”, I will lay it down and measure to make sure it is working up to gauge. If I am just a hair short, I am happy, as the garment will relax and tend to grow a bit. If I am right on or a hair over, I may need to consider reswatching, or at least keep checking it as my piece progresses.
Swatching on 18 sts over 4” will not accurately tell you what 108 sts will do in a full size, often heavy, sweater. That is why I do 8” swatches. While they are not 108 sts, they are closer than a 4” swatch, then I watch gauge carefully as I start up the back.
The Craft Yarn Council has created an extremely loose set of guidelines. These guidelines consist of 7 categories numbered 0 through 5. Many yarn manufacturers now print a category on their ball wrapper. For experienced knitters these guidelines are just frustration. But for a brand new knitter it helps to get a size of the different sizes and what needle/hook size might be most appropriate for it.